Sunday, July 12, 2009

Better Skin Part 1: Cleansing, or All Hail the Clarisonic!

Every month I get numerous magazines, from Glamour to Allure, to trade magazines that all contain articles on how to have great skin.

This is the first in a series of posts on my tips for better skin, compiled from a bevy of sources - professional, personal, literature, and good old trial and error!

Cleansing

Thoroughly removing your makeup and preparing it for skin care products is the most important step. You will not believe how many people I see who are not cleansing their skin optimally!

First, the method:
At the very least, use a washcloth to remove your makeup and cleanser. If you just splash your face, you are only pushing debris and makeup to the outside edges of your face. A washcloth, ideally a baby washcloth, is an absolute must. If you are acne prone, use a separate towel for your face from your hand towel. Imagine the bacteria that collects on a hand towel!
Studies have shown that the average woman cleanses her face for 20 seconds a DAY. This is not nearly enough to remove the makeup, oil, sweat, and environmental pollutants that have accumulated on your skin for the last 12 + hours.
Work the cleanser into your skin for at least 1 minute, allow to sit for 10-15 seconds, then rinse. This allows the cleanser to fully emulsify the makeup you are wearing.
DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT use an overly abrasive cleanser or item to cleanse your face. No Buf-Pufs, please! These only cause microscopic tears in your epidermis, which not only allow bacteria to grow, but also lead to inflammation, broken capillaries, and over-sensitized skin. A client once told me she used the GREEN SCRUBBERS THAT YOU USE ON DISHES to cleanse her face! NOT recommended!
I DO recommend the Clarisonic skin care brush. This is the best gift I have ever received, I mean it ranks right up there with my engagement ring in terms of how much I love it! While expensive, you will use it everyday without fail! The Clarisonic uses sonic technology to vibrate the brush, instead of the old-fashioned rotary kind that turn. The Clarisonic actually vibrates every last molecule of makeup off! This has revolutionized cleansing. I only thought I was washing my face before. I have used it for over a year and a half now, and I have a dramatic reduction in breakouts and blackheads. I use it once a day, to remove my makeup at night.
But, if you can't fork out the $195 right now, please go buy a $3 pack of baby washcloths for me.

Second, the means of cleansing:
A good cleanser is truly hard to find. My requirements are:
  1. Gentle, not stripping. Your face should feel soft, not tight or itchy after cleansing.
  2. Free of any abrasive materials, such as nut pieces, etc. No St. Ives Apricot Scrub! This will also cause microscopic tears in your epidermis. I do like and appreciate several exfoliants, which I will discuss in a later post.
  3. Ideally free of superfluous fragrance and some counter-irritants, like peppermint or menthol.
  4. In most cases, have no benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid, or pricey ingredients. These things just get washed down the sink, and are not in contact with your skin long enough to have any effect!

I have found that exceptional cleansers transcend skin type, i.e. they should suit normal to oily types. However, super sensitive and extra-dry types will benefit from a formula suited to them.

Here are my favorite cleansers that I have tried and used with success:

  • La Roche Posay Toleriane Purifying Foaming Creme Cleanser (whew, that's a mouthful!): This is the BEST cleanser that I have ever used, it completely melts away makeup and is great for normal, combination or oily types, even sensitive. $18-20, it is mainly found online, at dermstore.com or drugstore.com
  • CeraVe Cleanser: Best for normal/dry types. Has a moisturizing ingredient that stays behind after the cleanser is washed off. I have only found this at CVS.
  • Cetaphil cleanser: Best for sensitive types, who do not wear a lot of makeup. This will not remove makeup to my satisfaction, but if you are a natural girl, this is a good one. At all drugstores.
  • A-Cute Derm Pro-C gel cleanser: perfect for normal to oily, removes makeup well. While it does include antioxidants, the price point is so reasonable, it's not a big deal. Tell me if you'd like to try it!
  • Skinceuticals Clarifying cleanser: this does have a small amount of salicylic acid included, but the main reason I like it is because it cleans without stripping, which is rare for a blemish-targeted cleanser. Recommended only if you have active breakouts. You can't buy Skinceuticals online anymore, which is a bummer, but several spas and dermatologists carry it.
  • A goodie that's cheapie: pHisoDerm Deep Cleaning cleanser (for normal and sensitive types): This is usually under $5!!! but it is tricky to find - recently I found it at HEB, and they actually had pHisoDerm for babies in the baby aisle. This is an awesome product if your little one gets dry patches, eczema, or baby acne.

The bottom line here: gentle, thorough makeup removal is the MOST important step if you want clear, smooth skin.

My daily cleansing routine goes like this:

A.M. Eminence Sweet Red Rose Cleanser (not mentioned above because it does have essential oils, so this is a personal fave, not one I'd recommend to all of you)

P.M. A-Cute Derm makeup removal pads first, then A-Cute Derm Pro-C cleanser or CeraVe coupled with my Clarisonic. Sometimes I use the A-Cute Derm cleansing lotion in between those steps, and I love using the La Roche Posay when I can afford it!

No comments:

Post a Comment